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  1. #121
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    My involvement
    HDMI 1 - AZBox Premium HD + (sounddrops)
    HDMI 2 - STB Motorola VIP 1003 (sounddrops)
    HDMI 3 - STB Juice (sounddrops)
    HDMI 4 - test the involvement of the three devices above (sounddrops)
    sometimes it's up to 7 times per minute

    classic TV reception via antenna (not sounddrops)
    Last edited by johny_sk; 05-07-2011 at 07:09 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by johny_sk View Post
    My involvement
    HDMI 1 - AZBox Premium HD + (sounddrops)
    HDMI 2 - STB Motorola VIP 1003 (sounddrops)
    HDMI 3 - STB Juice (sounddrops)
    HDMI 4 - test the involvement of the three devices above (sounddrops)
    sometimes it's up to 7 times per minute

    classic TV reception via antenna (not sounddrops)
    So the problem is the signal through HDMI. Are there other TV-labels like ie Sony and Samsung who also have this problem?

  3. #123
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeroen61 View Post
    So the problem is the signal through HDMI. Are there other TV-labels like ie Sony and Samsung who also have this problem?
    For these brands are not.

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    I don't know how the legal stuff is in other countries, but here in DK it's very strict, and if a product is unsatisfying in any way (like this) you get your money back. Philips called thursday and asked if I wanted to try to get it repaired, friday they called and we scheduled to do this at my apartment tuesday. Now I'm waiting for them to come and put in a new motherboard. If this works, I guess it's not the FW.

    I'll report back to you.

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    TV is rebooting.
    When i watch movies from computer via Ethernet or then watch TV from set-top-box plugged to HDMI 1

  6. #126
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    I asked it before on another forum but wanted to ask it here also.
    I'm planning to put a small RC filter before the IR-Leds that transmits to the 3D-Glasses.

    This will (theoretical) result in a small delay before the IR will lit with result that the shutter glasses will open a bit later and would remove all crosstalk. It's a 'quick and dirty' solution, but if it works we are all happy.

    Only thing is that I do not know if the IR-Leds are emitting all the time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nemo View Post
    I don't know how the legal stuff is in other countries, but here in DK it's very strict, and if a product is unsatisfying in any way (like this) you get your money back. Philips called thursday and asked if I wanted to try to get it repaired, friday they called and we scheduled to do this at my apartment tuesday. Now I'm waiting for them to come and put in a new motherboard. If this works, I guess it's not the FW.

    I'll report back to you.
    THX - let know how to fix it

  8. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeroen61 View Post
    So the problem is the signal through HDMI.
    I'm experiencing intermittend sound loss with Dolby Digital streams via S/PDIF too (the P in S/PDIF stands for Philips...). PCM streams are fine. The problem is either the broadcast stream itself or the Philips TV.

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    Dear Markus,

    I had the same issue (HDMI and SPDIF) combining the 37PFL8605M/08 and the Philips HTS5120 soundbar.
    The sound drop problem was caused by the soundbar.
    Philips has proposed me to substitute the HTS5120 with the HTS7140 and now....
    no sound drops any longer.

    regards

  10. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nettle View Post
    Dear Markus,

    I had the same issue (HDMI and SPDIF) combining the 37PFL8605M/08 and the Philips HTS5120 soundbar.
    The sound drop problem was caused by the soundbar.
    Philips has proposed me to substitute the HTS5120 with the HTS7140 and now....
    no sound drops any longer.

    regards
    This is not the solution.

  11. #131
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    Hi Nettle,

    did they also explain what caused the sound problems? Maybe the HTS7140 has just a more forgiving error correction?

    On your TV, did you set Setup > Channel Settings > Languages > Preferred Audio Format to "Advanced"? This enables AC-3 streams (when available in broadcast).

    Did you also check both inputs of the soundbar, S/PDIF and HDMI?

    Markus

    Quote Originally Posted by Nettle View Post
    Dear Markus,

    I had the same issue (HDMI and SPDIF) combining the 37PFL8605M/08 and the Philips HTS5120 soundbar.
    The sound drop problem was caused by the soundbar.
    Philips has proposed me to substitute the HTS5120 with the HTS7140 and now....
    no sound drops any longer.

    regards
    Last edited by markus; 05-09-2011 at 10:22 AM.

  12. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by markus View Post
    Hi Nettle,

    did they also explain what caused the sound problems? Maybe the HTS7140 has just a more forgiving error correction? Did you set Setup > Channel Settings > Languages > Preferred Audio Format to "Advanced"? This enables AC-3 streams (when available in broadcast).

    Markus
    Philips has told me that they have tested the HTS7140 and it was not giving the problem.

    I don't have infos regarding the origin of the HT5120 failure.
    What I suspect is that the HTS5120 was HDMI 1.3 and the HTS7140 is a 1.4.

    I'll verify the suggested settings.

    regards

  13. #133
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    Oke, forget about the RCfilter in the IR Transmitter, this cannot work (it's protocols that are sent).
    The mistake Philips made is that they used the XPAND-103 series, which have a very nasty problem.
    They only have 2 protocols (states): 1. Left open, Right closed and 2. Right open, left closed
    It's impossible for these glasses to have both lenses closed at the same time. There will always be one lens open.
    The only thing philips can do to avoid crosstalk, is to shorten the frame sent to one lens and blacken it out.

    But I'm not giving up right now, I openend the glasses and the closing/opening is simply controlled by 2 wires.
    The control-state of these wiring is: 1. Open=power on the wires. 2. Closed no power.
    So maybe the RC filter could work if I put it IN the glasses. Should be easy to make

  14. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leonos View Post
    I asked it before on another forum but wanted to ask it here also.
    I'm planning to put a small RC filter before the IR-Leds that transmits to the 3D-Glasses.

    This will (theoretical) result in a small delay before the IR will lit with result that the shutter glasses will open a bit later and would remove all crosstalk. It's a 'quick and dirty' solution, but if it works we are all happy.

    Only thing is that I do not know if the IR-Leds are emitting all the time.

    Great idea!

    Let me know how it goes!


    EDIT: Oh, just saw the above post!

    If your new idea works I'd go for it too!
    By the way did your hear about the new glasses from XPAND?
    They are supposed to be configurable (shutter delays, duration etc) and they are due out in a couple of months.
    Last edited by gad; 05-09-2011 at 05:38 PM.

  15. #135
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    Yeah I know, but a couple of months is very long for impatient people

    It's a very simple procedure, one resistor and one capacitor, which leads to the pulse wave to build up less steep, so the full-open state will be accomplished later.
    Tests will have to see which values I have to use for the capacitor and resistor.
    Maybe just adding one capacitor maybe sufficient, wheras a resistor is probably already before the LCD wire.
    Last edited by Leonos; 05-10-2011 at 08:21 AM.

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